New Zealand dentist climbs Mt. Everest with support from KaVo

In the early 20th century, many people attempted to reach the highest point on Earth. In 1953, Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay made a start by despatching the myth of the unconquerability of the mountain and thus attained the final major goal after the conquest of the North and South Poles. Many further expeditions followed.

The young New Zealand dentist, Julian Haszard, an enthusiastic mountaineer, also could not resist the peak of temptation. With support from KaVo, he succeeded in climbing the highest mountain in the world on 23.05.2004.

Mount Everest

Mount Everest The giant Everest, also called "Chomolungma" (= "Mother of Earth") lies in the Himalayas, the greatest mountain range on earth. The border between the Hindu kingdom of Nepal and the communist People's Republic of China, runs over its peak.

Consequently, the 8850 m high Everest can be climbed from two sides.

Over the route taken by the first climbers along the South Saddle (Nepal side)
or over the historic Mallory route, the north ridge (Tibet side).

Both routes are considered to be technically demanding, the northern route appearing more advantageous in some cases due to better weather conditions. Along both routes are camps which serve as rest stations or acclimatization stations.

South Saddle

A total of 5 camps are required along the South Saddle. The first camp, the so-called base camp, is located at an altitude of 5340 m. From there, the wild Khumbu icefall has to be climbed in order to enter the "Valley of Silence" (Western Cwm). The next camp here is at an altitude of 5950 m. The still strenuous path leads to camp 3 at an altitude of 7450 m. The South Saddle of Mount Everest at about 7900 m is reached via the Lhotse flank. From there, with small deviations, the South Ridge is followed, via the internationally known "Hillary Step" to the summit at 8850 m.

North Ridge

6 camps are located on the northern route. The base camp on the Chinese side is at an altitude of 5200 m. This is still about 20 km away from Mt. Everest in a direct line. The base camp is followed, at an altitude of 6400 m, by the "Advanced Base Camp" on a slightly ascending morainic topography. Up to this point, loads can be transported on the backs of the Asian beasts of burden, the yaks. It is difficult to remain for prolonged periods at this altitude - owing to the cold, the wind and the very thin air, and excessively long stay may be life-threatening.

The further stations from the Advanced Base Camp are: Camp 1 (7100 m), Camp 2 (7500 m), Camp 3 (7900m), Camp 4 (8300m) and finally the summit (8850 m).

The greatest difficulties are the final steps to the summit. The terms "first step" and "second step" are used here. In general, these passages are secured with fixed ropes by the first expedition groups - in the "second step", the 35 m long Chinese aluminium ladder has been in existence since the 70s. The main problem of the route in this region, in addition to the enormous altitude, is the exposure to wind. The summit is reached via a snow/ice field inclined at about 45 degrees.

Sherpa –the experienced guide

For climbing such enormously high mountains, it is of course necessary to have professional equipment and especially experienced guides - the Sherpas. The Sherpas are a Tibetan people who migrated into the Nepalese Khumbu region. They are an important part of an expedition team. Without the decisive experience of these domestic guides, it would be virtually impossible for a team to find its way.

Julian Haszard's tour to the summit of Everest

Ever since Julian began extreme mountaineering in 1997, it had always been his dream to stand at the summit of Everest one day. However, such a decision requires a great deal of courage, experience and intensive willpower to achieve a firm goal. When Julian climbed the Cho Oyo (8201 m) in 2003, it became clear to him that his next goal would be Everest. In spite of this decisive moment, five weeks were to follow before the decision was finally made. Such an expedition requires extremely professional physical and mental preparation.

After extensive training in New Zealand, Julian made his way to Kathmandu on 21.03.04. Haszard had therefore decided on the North Ridge route starting from Tibet. At the location, he made use of the Tibetan highland for a few trekking tours in order to become acclimatized before tackling his goal. On 4 April 2004, the confirmed mountaineer and his team of ten left Kathmandu and landed in Lhasa, the closest airport to Everest. Via Xigase and New Tingri, the expedition team finally arrived at base camp on 17 April 2004.

As its next goal, the Everest group, accompanied by 14 Sherpas, aimed for the Advanced Base Camp located at 7100 m.

From here on, the aim was to tackle the tour step by step and to carefully think about the stages ahead. This is because the end can be achieved only in small steps. For example, several stretches often have to be tested first before being able finally to settle in a camp. From time to time, it also proved necessary to descend again from a camp since there was an increasing danger of altitude sickness if the ascent had been made too quickly.

Altitude sickness is understood as meaning all consequences, symptoms and complaints which arise as a result of the low air pressure or oxygen pressure existing at great altitudes. These may be mild symptoms from as low as about 2000 m to severe symptoms, such as thromboses, pulmonary and/or cerebral oedemas and pulmonary embolisms at great altitudes. Those affected have to be brought to lower altitude as quickly as possible, since otherwise the altitude sickness in its severest form can quickly lead to death.

In Haszard's expedition, no one was affected by this sickness. The intelligent ascent strategy was certainly one of the reasons for the well being of the team. The strategy was to reach the peak as quickly as possible but nevertheless in slow steps since, owing to the stock of oxygen cylinders, a longer stay at these altitudes was not possible at all.

The team remained only one night in the first camp and then moved on to Camp 2, which is located at an altitude of 7500 m, necessitating the use of oxygen masks for most people. Owing to a severe storm, however, the Everest team had to wait for two days before continuing its tour to Camp 3. The third and therefore penultimate camp is "as if on the moon" –the landscape is whipped by the wind, rocky and barren. From this camp onwards, an oxygen mask was indispensable and, owing to the limited stock of CO2, Julian and his team were consequently forced to attempt the route to Camp 4 as quickly as possible. Camp 4 served only as a small station where power and energy were gathered in spite of discouraging factors, such as storms, cold and even encounters with frozen members of other teams. Shortly after midnight, Julian Haszard and his group accepted the challenge of the final very demanding and technical steps - "First Step" and "Second Step". The slightest error here could have resulted in the loss of life. The last steps on the mountain ridge were probably also the most difficult, but the considerable risk taken here is only a secondary matter. "As I climbed the last few metres to the top of the world, I felt a flood of emotions but at the same time had to control these feelings in order to avoid any mistakes Then all of a sudden it happened, I was at the highest point on Earth –the summit of Mount Everest." Although this moment was full of joy and euphoria, it could not be enjoyed to the full extent because after all it was only the halfway stage.

Julian spent about half an hour at the top of the world. The descent was very tiring and demanded a great deal of concentration. The arrival back in Camp 4 was itself a very great relief. However, due to the risk of freezing and of altitude sickness, Julian continued descending to Camp 1.

Only there did the conquerors of Everest feel more or less safe and were able to recover overnight. However, the genuine feeling of well being and safety did not appear until Advanced Base Camp. All tiredness, all anxiety and all strain fell from their shoulders. It was only there that it became clear that the challenges of nature had been overcome and the dangers of this giant on the horizon were passed.

To show his gratitude and respect to the Sherpas, Dr. Haszard practised as a dentist in Namche Bazair for about four weeks and took part in a project in the Khumbu Valley . The aim of this "Khumbu Childhood Dental Project" is in particular to support a young Sherpa dentist to enable him primarily to prevent the risk of loss of teeth in children owing to the excessively high consumption of sugar.

Why support from KaVo in particular?

The highly innovative CAD/CAM system, which represents the peak of dental perfection and precision, has since 2000 borne the name "Everest" –the peak of accuracy. For KaVo, this name indicates maximum dental quality and aesthetics. Mount Everest was and is an inspiration for many people as well as organizations –not only in the world of mountaineers but also in the business world.

Dr. Julian Haszard has for years appreciated KaVo as a high-quality and reliable partner and therefore prefers to be accompanied by KaVo both in the practice and on the way to the highest point on earth.

Julian Haszard during a visit to KaVo Leutkirch

From left to right: Max Mohr –Managing Director KaVo Leutkirch, Dr. Julian Haszard